Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Gardens
Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds gather.
This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with plump purplish berries on a rambling garden plot situated between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol downtown.
"I've noticed individuals concealing illegal substances or whatever in those bushes," states the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He has pulled together a loose collective of growers who produce vintage from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments throughout the city. The project is too clandestine to have an official name yet, but the collective's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.
City Vineyards Around the World
To date, the grower's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which features more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of Paris's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and over 3,000 grapevines overlooking and inside Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them throughout the world, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards assist cities stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. They protect land from construction by creating long-term, productive agricultural units inside urban environments," says the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a product of the earth the vines grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, community, environment and history of a city," adds the president.
Unknown Polish Variety
Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he grew from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. If the rain arrives, then the birds may take advantage to feast again. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European grape," he says, as he cleans bruised and mouldy berries from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Efforts Throughout the City
Additional participants of the group are also taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of vintage from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from approximately 50 plants. "I love the smell of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a container of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her household in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has previously survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they can continue producing from the soil."
Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Production
A short walk away, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated over one hundred fifty vines perched on terraces in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, 60, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a serving in the growing number of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of producing wine."
"When I tread the grapes, all the wild yeasts come off the surfaces and enter the juice," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and then add a commercially produced yeast."
Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions
A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to plant her vines, has gathered his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on regular visits to Europe. But it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only challenge faced by winegrowers. Reeve has had to install a barrier on